Whitstable — A memorable day well spent

It was the last day of a satisfying and long trip to the UK, and we decided to spend it at Whitstable. What and where is Whitstable you might ask?

Whitstable is a quintessential British seaside town on the north coast of Kent in south-east England. It is about five miles north of Canterbury and is famous for oysters. There is the annual Whitstable Oyster Festival, and mind you, oysters have been collected here since Roman times.

We were lucky to be there on a bright, cheerful and hot summer day in the middle of August. The local market day is Thursday, and we happened to be there on a Thursday. You can imagine the busy-ness all around. It felt very festive. Lots of people around. I am only used to dodging people in India and not in England, so this was a very different experience.

There were seven of us, so two cars made the journey from Epping to Whitstable. The journey was about an hour and a half and was an easy ride. Being sort of lazy and on holiday we did not really leave that early. That meant that we reached our luncheon destination later than we should have. Lucky for us our hosts were most accommodating and we were warmly welcomed.

Our lunch was booked at this charming British restaurant — Samphire. An independent, family run, unfussy, rustic bistro dedicated to local fish, meat and seasonal vegetables. All they served, was locally sourced from producers in Kent and the South East of England. The food and experience was fabulous. Even the wine they suggested was locally produced. Having wine from England was a first for me, but very honestly, it was not bad at all. The most interesting aspect for me was, seeing our reservation details written out in chalk on the table itself. White chalk on a light brown surface, written, using the word again, in a rather unfussy writing style, gave the place a very personal and comforting feel.

Our first choice for lunch was the Sportsman, having heard so much about it. Little did we know that you probably need to book there several months in advance. On a gorgeous summer market day we did not stand a chance. It was just a wasted phone call.

Whitstable, during the Napoleonic Wars, was a smuggler’s haven, and there are a number of narrow alleys leading down to the sea. These were used by smugglers as escape routes for their illegal trade in spirits and tobacco. Those were the days when most Kentish coastal towns were awash in such, and probably some more, illegal activities. Squeeze Gut Alley, one such alley, was named because at one point it really is a tight squeeze.

Present day Whitstable has a strong tradition in the arts. The Harbour Village offers a space for artisans, craftsmen and local producers to showcase themselves in traditional fisherman’s huts by the quay.

After lunch we spent some time exploring this picturesque town. The pretty locally owned stores and the many pop ups that were around. We walked along the quayside, peaking into the many huts. Chattered a lot. The children had a fun time. After getting some fine coffee from Blueprint we finally settled down on the slope that leads you into the ocean.

It was thrill to find this Scandi-cool café — Blueprint. Part coffee bar and part bookshop it is a sweet place to get lost in. The smell of coffee wafting around and books, it is easy to get heady and lost. They also ensure that the milk is from the local pampered Kentish cows. I strongly feel that all businesses must source locally. A lesson the current pandemic is teaching the world, what with international borders and trade all shut down.

Coming back to time spent at the ocean-side. We just plonked ourselves down on the edge of the slope. The gusty winds ruffling our hair, for some of us with hair and caressing the bald head of my dear friend. We used our bags as head rests and lay down on the ground. Just being and chatting over the sound of the waves. The beach itself is pebbly and not inviting for me at least. Strangely it was refreshing to have the salt air wash over us.

I learnt, when there is an R in the month, it is native oyster season. And so being August it wasn’t for us to get those stunning Whitstable oysters. Some other trip I guess. With the current travel ban, I cannot even wager a guess as to my next trip to that part of the world.

Whitstable is also the base for the Greta Thomas Sailing Barge. Greta took part in the evacuation from Dunkirk in 1940 and is the oldest (1892) active Dunkirk Little Ship. There are typically six hour sailing trips. Another one for some possible future.

For the cycling buffs there is a seven mile, almost traffic-free route that takes you all the way to Canterbury — Crab and Winkle Way. You can experience a delightful slice of east Kent, packed with history and nostalgia.

Around half past six we got some tea and cake at another very homely local deli and then headed back home.

On the way home we got talking about many of our life plans and some of our business plans. That ride laid the seeds of some of the decisions we are taking even today, two years on. With the Tesla doing some self-driving, it makes discussions easier. You can take the eye off the road in bits. Makes me nervous for sure. But it works. Although only an hour and half to get back home, we did manage to cover a lot.

A trip to the UK is not complete for me if I don’t get some meaningful time with my friend. We were in university together in the mid-eighties and have been an integral part of each other’s lives since then. We understand each other and have seen each other through our ups and downs.

Our day in Whitstable will always stay with us as a most special day to be remembered fondly over the years to come. Only wish we could have stayed there for at least a couple of days. Even though the day was special, I am overcome with sadness as I remember that time. Not sure what it is. Is it the feeling that I may never be back there again? Is that going to be only time I visit Whitstable in my life? Are we meant to visit some places just the once? Of course that is true. There would be many places I shall only ever visit once in my life. But this was very special, and the heart yearns to go back.

Written By Mohit Gupta

Week 16, March ’19