Driving down a treacherously steep slope through the rugged Aravali range in Rajasthan my eye fell on a very smart looking property in the middle of the forest. We were on our way from Kumbhalgarh to Ranakpur, in Rajasthan. I could have easily missed the place and driven past the non-descript gate. I couldn’t resist and asked the driver to pull into the gate. There was no board at the gate.
At the gate we were informed that it was a hotel, but we would not be allowed inside. Only guests with confirmed bookings were allowed to be on the property. I got a little annoyed and asked to speak to the manager, but to no avail. In any case the property had no manager. After some pressure we were met by the most courteous Daulat Singh. He assuaged my hurt ego and most humbly explained that their hands were tied.
With some reluctance he agreed to connect us with the owner, Reggie Singh. Once we had been vetted by Reggie, we were allowed to go in. Then it was just not a permission to see the property, but we were given the complete royal treatment. Tea was served in bone china and we had the finger sandwiches and bhajias for the Indian touch. We were seated in the open deck with views of the resplendent gardens and Aravali hills in the distant. It was surreal.
Daulat Singh was there at all times, ready to look into whatever we needed. Every time I spoke, he said “Hukum”. The intention being to say that “I shall action your every wish”. The courtesy is amazing. The slight bowing. The gentle demeanour. The joining of the hands. Saying hukum every time as a mark of respect. I was humbled and at the same time joyous at such regal gestures.
The suites were stunning. Four poster beds and plunge pools. The Mountbatten Lodge, tucked away amidst the Aravali ranges at the edge of a national reserve forest, is a paradise for nature lovers looking for a romantic lavish getaway. The overwhelming greenery and the serene ambiance are mesmerising from the very first look. Add to that the utmost comfort, luxury and signature hospitality, and it makes for a once-in-a-lifetime must have experience. You can also expect maximum privacy as there are only four suites. And yet it is understated and very elegantly designed.
I also want to tell you about the two landmark historical sites, both built in the 15th Century, in close vicinity to the Lodge — The Kumbhalgarh Fort and the Ranakpur Jain Temple.
Ranakpur, about ten kilometres away, is home to the Ranakpur Jain Temple. The temple complex is positioned in an isolated valley on the western side of the Aravali Range. The complex, covering an area of nearly 48,000 square feet, has 29 halls, 80 domes and is supported by 1444 marble pillar, each of them intricately carved, yet no two of them are alike. Even more impressive is to see them all so perfectly aligned. Standing there I could see the long passages created by the rows of pillars and felt the breeze on my skin as it made its way through these passages. These are my zen moments. I can still feel the tingle on my skin as I think of that day over five years ago.
Twenty-four kilometres in the other direction is the Kumbhalgarh Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Also built in the 15th Century, its mammoth wall is the second longest continuous wall in the world, earning it the title of “Great Wall of India”. The wall snakes for an astonishing 36 kilometers over 13 hills. We climbed up to the walkway along the upper part of the wall and walked for as long as our legs could take us. Tired and satiated with the expansive stunning views we made our way back to our hotel. Such extensive protection meant that Mughal invaders found it impossible to penetrate the fort.
We were privileged to see the light and sound show at the fort. This gave us an insight into the fort’s history. There is also the Neelkanth Mahadeo Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva within the ramparts of the fort. Built in 1458 AD, it has a six feet high stone Shivling. Legends say that King Rana Kumbha, who made the temple, was so tall that when he sat on the floor whilst offering prayers his eyes were on the same level as the Shivling.
The day we were there, a local wealthy family was offering special prayers to the deity. Traditionally during such prayers, women cannot be in the temple. The family graciously invited me, alone of course, to partake in the prayers. Although I am not a big believer of rituals, it felt special to be a part of this grand ceremony. Isn’t it always about being in the right place at the right time? It truly is. Fate takes over and you are just there. Absorbed by the enormity of it all.
We were in the area for about a week and were able to have many local experiences. Rajasthani food is opulent and very delicious. I was even able to ride a bullock with a farmer and we were able to visit a local government aided school. The teachers in the school invited us to meet the children and that was rewarding. We were advised that they lacked books and writing material. Gajendra Singh, who was driving us around, helped us procure some of this locally for the school. We felt joyous that we were able to share some.
Coming back to the Lodge. We were back the next day to spend an evening there. Snacks served under the 300-year-old Banyan tree, Prosecco at the deck with views of the sunset, jazz music from the eighties from Reggie’s personal collection, the grand pool table, finally followed by dinner in the formal dining room served in old style bone china. All in all, it was a most memorable evening for us. A true-blue Rajasthani experience.
Written By Mohit Gupta
Week 19, May ’19
