A lot has been said and written about this vibrant city. So many perspectives. My intention is not to glorify the city or denigrate it. I simply want to share how I have come to adore this city. For us, from Mumbai, Bangkok is an easy place to get to. So much so, that people even go there for a weekend or an extended weekend.
When you think of Bangkok, the few immediate things that come to mind are — the dense traffic, the red-light areas and the foot massages. The traffic can be so bad, that the Thai Traffic Police have a unit of officers trained in basic midwifery so that they can assist any deliveries, when people are not able to reach the hospitals in time. This is a bit of hearsay. I would love to find out if it is true. Do let me know if you know this to be true.
Last December we were in Bangkok for just about 48 hours after a gap of two years. The trip before that was for about 72 hours. Quick trips and yet we did pack in a lot. In both cases Bangkok was a stopover and am I glad that we made that choice.
These two trips have absolutely made me fall in love with the city. So much so, that there is the risk that this note sounds like a promotion for the city. I so wish that I can go more often. And my next trip has to be between seven and ten days. I am declaring this to the universe and so all the energies will come together to make it happen.
Traffic can be intense but is generally orderly. There is no incessant honking. No crazy lane cutting. The cars stick to their lanes and the taxis patiently wait for the one in front. I must add that, on both our recent trips we did not experience choc-a-bloc traffic at all. In fact, during the most recent one we barely saw much traffic at all. Perhaps it was the timings that we were on the road.
On both our trips we chose to stay in the Pathum Wan Area. At least on the roads that we were staying on, there was just no traffic, no chaos of any kind. There was a general sense of calm and cleanliness. It felt like a perfect cross between the organized west and the earthy and very real east. There was a time I was deeply in love with Europe. So intensely that I resisted all travel to the east. This last trip to Bangkok was definitely my watershed. Europe is off my list for now. In many ways this area reminded me of Tokyo. Far more reasonably, and so much closer for us from Mumbai.
Bangkok is a food lovers paradise. Not just for Thai food. We were armed with a list of recommendations from some ardent Bangkok lovers. On our last December trip, we had hired a car and driver to be with us through the trip. Language can be a little challenge when dealing with the driver, but nothing that you cannot overcome. With this convenience, we were easily able to get around.
Both our sons were with us. Our older one has substantial knowledge of the local bars and restaurants and the younger one being a specialty coffee geek was ready with his list of coffee places to try.
Shopping also is a great joy in Bangkok. I am not talking about the street markets and the night markets. For me those are too much of a challenge. There are many quaint and pretty stores around. Some in malls and some in hidden corners of the city.
A must-have for all of us is the Thai coconut water. Wherever we went we had to have one, and at times two each. They are not just thirst quenching but are soul quenching. So perfectly cut and so perfectly sweet every time. The Thai give so much attention to detail in everything they do. It is marvelous to experience that.
We tried a lot of coffee — The Coffee Academics, Roots (has multiple locations), Casa Lapin, Pacamara and One Ounce for Onion. My best coffee was at One Ounce for Onion. Hands down. At The Coffee Academics the avocado toast with poached egg left a swell and lingering memory for me.
Then there were the bars — Bamboo Bar, The House on Sathorn and many that I cannot remember. Too much alcohol in too short a time. Bamboo Bar had the vibe with the live jazz music and The House on Sathorn had the formal sit down, very fancy experience. Both offered a wide range of well-coordinated cocktails.
Our dinner, the day we got to Bangkok last December, was a Japanese meal — Teppen at Watthana. We were able to experience a very different range of Japanese food in a fun no fuss atmosphere. There was a palpable excitement amongst us, being in Bangkok. In all that heady feeling, caused as much by the copious amounts of sake we had right at the start, we probably ordered too much. But in the end did justice to all that came to the table. Nothing was wasted. The only thing a tad difficult, much due to my not so good knee, was getting seated and getting back up. In true Japanese style you have to sit on the floor and then your feet drop into a sort of a dug-out.
The other two eateries that we were able to reach last December were also spectacular — Lunch at The Never Ending Summer and dinner at Eat Me. The Never Ending Summer offers an ensemble of traditional and classic Thai food in a well-designed warehouse. Despite its industrial feel, the expansive space has a warm and cozy feel. The food at Eat Me has influences from around the world. The raw materials are sourced keeping sustainability in mind. Most importantly the warm and friendly associate left a distinct memory for us.
On our previous trip, two eateries left an indelible mark on us — Bo.Lan and Soul Food Mahanakorn. Soul Food is this buzzy and happy place and Bo.Lan a very formal and fancy experience. Both offer an array of excellent Thai food.
Please don’t forget the Thai street food. Keep a lot of time and tummy-space for that experience. I did on both my recent trips.
To end, I shall share a perhaps little-known fact about Bangkok. Locals refer to their city as Krungthep or “City of Angels”. The full local name is mind-bogglingly long, being all of 169-characters and has been listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the longest name of a place. Wait for it. Drum roll….. Doubt that you can pronounce that if you are not Thai….
Krungthepmahanakhon Amonrattanakosin Mahinthara Yutthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udom Ratchaniwet Mahasathan Amonphiman Awatansathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukamprasit.
Roughly, this translates to :
City of angels, great city of immortals, the magnificent city of the nine gems, seat of the king, city of royal palaces, home of gods incarnate, erected by Vishvakarman at Indra’s behest.
There you have it — my expression of love for Bangkok, The City of Angels.
Written By Mohit Gupta
Week 17, April ’20
