If you have spent time in Goa, the way I have, then you will know that 48 hours just ain’t enough. Considering that all you have is that much time then, you have to book yourself such that the 48 hours actually turns to 56 hours or even to 60 hours if you are truly full of energy and need little sleep to be able to have a super fun, relaxing and enriching two nights and three days.
Goa is a striking, often bewildering place, with treasures lurking in the unlikeliest (and likeliest) of places. There’s an overwhelming amount of things to see, food to eat, architecture to gaze at and people to chat with. I shall attempt to enlighten you on, how to make the most of this dizzying array of experiences. So allow us to guide you through two/three days in Goa in a way that’ll leave you feeling gratified and rejuvenated.
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First things first — to really get the 60 hours you will need to book one of those red eye causing early morning flights. There are many early connections to Goa from many Indian cities. For those of you who don’t know, Goa’s airport is a Naval base and hence for certain parts of the day the airport is closed to civilian flights. Hence, there are no super nice flights that get you there in the comfortable hours of the morning. You either get there at some unearthly time before seven in the morning or after midday. After that there are many flights for the rest of the day. To really achieve the 60 hours you gotta stay two nights and take the late evening or perhaps even a late night flight back to your destination, post ten pm.
Next pick a good base for this short trip. I strongly recommend staying in north Goa. Calangute could be a good option. Though many of the snobs would say that Calangute has lost its charm, is too crowded and too downmarket. Though with Calangute as your base, you’re never too far from any of the action and getting around is a breeze compared to anywhere else. If you do want the more snobbish and quieter parts then you have to go the beach fronts further north — Arambol, Ashvem, Morjim, Mandrem, or even Querim. Or park yourself in the super fancy areas of Assagaon or Siolim. But then you are not near the beach in any way. My favourite area to live, if I ever achieve my dream to move to Goa, would be Parra, hands down.
To make the most of Goa you will need your own transport. A car if you like the comfy stuff, a fancy bike if you are a hipster, or the scooter if you wanna be a hipster but like to play it a bit safe. And a good pair of sunglasses. But you do need your own wheels. There is a recently launched app based taxi service launched by the Goa government, but the service is still building scale and hence is only available in certain areas — Goa Miles. Definitely works at Calangute and in Panjim.
If you have taken one of those super early morning, sleep depriving flights then you would get a good breakfast only at one of the hotels perhaps. Grand Hyatt is a good option and is not much of a diversion on your way to the north. But there are also some 24 hour places like the Thirsty Bear, also enroute if going north.
If you land close to lunch time then I can suggest a few good options to satisfy those beastly rumblings. Very close to the airport is Joets, right on the Bogmalo beach. The beauty of Joets is that it not only offers good reliable food, both Goan and non-Goan, but more importantly as you sit on one of those tacky plastic chairs right at the edge of the beach and your feet can feel the sand you know that you have arrived in the dreamy world that is Goa. You start to relax instantly and your holiday starts right there. The worries of the city far far away. Although at times we start our holiday from the time we leave our home as we sneakily start sipping some of the good stuff from our hip flask enroute the airport. Ha ha.
Two other water front options on your route north would be Sheela Bar & Restaurant or Ledas at Siridao. Both are pretty good but Joets is my all-time favourite. We love having the vegetable Manchurian with a nice crisp butter naan there. A very dear friend exposed us to this idea, over a decade ago, at Joets and it has stuck since then.
A few beers down and lunch out of the way make your way to your chosen quarters for the trip. I am a big fan of homestays or serviced apartments, and Goa offers plenty of those. After some rest and perhaps a good roll between the sheets I would recommend going to the beach latest by five or five thirty pm. Intimacy is crucial for a good break. Get a dip and enjoy the sunset, probably with some more beers from the local shacks. In case you are staying at Calangute I would recommend a dip at the Tivai beach, that is nestled between the more popular beaches of Candolim and Calangute. Tivai is nice and quiet, the water is clean and the shacks there are good. My better half and I have been many times and we love it. We normally stay about a ten minute walk from this beach. One of our favourite shacks is Chelsea.
Now it is time to plan the evening. What’s on the agenda for your first evening? Goa is a foodie’s dream because of the sheer number of quality restaurants. In case your first day is a Friday and you like some good ole retro music then make your way to Cavala. Cavala is still as good as gold and Friday nights it is the place to be. Good music, great drinks and a lot of dancing. Depending on your eating habits, get a good dinner before going to Cavala, especially if you like to eat well before the action or nibble throught the evening at Cavala itself. The food is not all that bad. In case you plan to eat there and want a table remember to book a few days before you leave for Goa.
There are many many great places to eat in North Goa and somehow many are concentrated in Assagaon. Gunpowder for some fabulous Andhra fare. Chef Chris Salim’s cozy and romantic Sublime that offers amazing international food. Jamun, a recent addition, also set in an old Goan home offers an array of amazing local food experiences. Bhatti Village in Nerul for some truly authentic Goan food — have you heard of fish gizzard? Patrick and his son are great hosts and his wife is a wizard in the kitchen. Ciao Bella — amazing Italian food. Tamil Table I am still to try. Chef Suchint Dhillon aka Suzie has the most romantic place in all of Goa — Suzie’s. But you have to book at least a day in advance. It only offers a table d’hôte, tdh for short, menu and you have to decide your choices in advance by filling a google form that they send by Whatsapp. This way there is no food wasted and you can guilt-free enjoy a sumptuous five-course meal made by Suzie herself. Innovative and delicious cocktails too are their signature. Chef Anurima Ghosh’s Edible Archive is a most recent addition to the Goa food scene and an even more recent discovery for me. And the food is well thought out and truly yumm.
I have given you so many choices that you can decide places for rest of your short stay and perhaps for some of your future trips. My only suggestion is do book in advance.
One thing is absolutely certain — drinking is a communal activity in Goa, and the sooner you jump on board, the better it will be for you. Walk into literally any one of the many bars that line the streets of small-state Goa, grab a table, or even a seat at someone else’s table, and go nuts trying the variety of local Goan beverages. From Feni, the cashew-based drink, to a slew of local beers, there’s something for everyone on the drinks menu. I highly recommend getting some Goan sausage to go with your choice of drink. You won’t regret it.
If you are ready to criss-cross the state a bit then I can make your second day very interesting. Many of us forget that Goa is a state and not a town. The roads are good and so you can get around easily but the distances can be daunting. Don’t sleep in too late if you want to make the most of your main day in Goa.
In a state that takes its food seriously, breakfast is basically a prerequisite. Goa is so replete with fantastic cafes that if you somehow manage to get a bad breakfast, we’re fairly certain you win some sort of prize. Don’t worry, we have just the place for you — Baba Au Rhum in Anjuna. Here, you can find everything you’ll need to shake off the dust from the night before, including coffee, roasted exclusively for the cafe.
Then spend most of the day on a beach front eatery. La Plage or Palm Grove at Ashwem beach or Burger Factory at Morjim. You can have a leisurely meal experience, get into the sea whenever you want, or get a massage on the beach beds between your starter and the main course. Or just leaf through the book you have been carrying around and read a bit. But do remember to book ahead, especially during season.
As you head back get a drink at Escobar, another favourite of mine, and then make your way to Fontainhas in Panjim for the evening. In the heart of this heritage area is my other favourite bar — Joseph’s. No point in me describing it. You have to experience it. It’s best to just wander thru Fontainhas and get better acquainted with the history of Goa. There are plenty of narrow streets and by-lanes to meander down and explore all that Goa has to offer. Strolling through the lanes of Fontainhas in Panjim, the commercial heart of Goa, is like being transported to another time — it truly is an experience to write home about. If you are early enough you will be able to get a peak at some of the art galleries in the area. After a few tipples at Joseph’s get dinner at Venite. Venite is an institution. There is history scribbled all over the walls and the ceiling and is accompanied by super authentic Goan food. If you are with your date and are thin enough then take the super tiny but truly romantic balcony seats.
Now if fish thali is your desire then I can suggest two of my favourites. In Goa’s northern city of Mapusa is my absolute favourite fish place is — Kamlabai Sea Food Restaurant. Always teeming with people it is a good place for lunch. The staff will not give you the time of day. But the food is finger licking good. Or there is Vinayak in upmarket Assagaon. Also very very good.
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Day three you probably want to take it easy. Sleep in late. Get some much needed r&r before you get ready for the return to the run of life. Perhaps spend some time with your loved ones telling them how much you appreciate them and all that they do. Do be positive. Cuddle, hug, give love and attention. Make all around you feel good. If you love the sea then perhaps another dip. A good meal at lunchtime can also make a big difference. Some wine over lunch will help all to relax some more. If you took my idea and took the late flight, and if you missed Joets when you arrived, then finish your trip at Joets enjoying the sunset, the evening sea breeze, some cocktails and some great food.
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Finally might I be so bold, as to recommend a service apartment complex in Calangute, a true hidden gem. Visit www.velvetthomestays.com to find out more. And to carry some super nutritious snacks may I suggest shopping on www.gourisgoodies.com.
Let me sign off by wishing you a great time in life and some super special times with your loved ones, wherever you may choose to go. And of course not forgetting, when we get to go, considering the current pandemic. Pray that you are safe and well. And that the people you love are all safe and well too. I know I am eagerly waiting to meet all the ones I love and and am eagerly waiting to go on my next trip. Wherever that may be. God Speed!!
Written By Mohit Gupta
Week 15, April, ’20
