Stubbornly traditional and jam-packed with sights, the small city of Hoi An also emanates a laidback, almost dreamy atmosphere that makes it an essential stop on a tour of Vietnam. This fascinating town, with its mellow streets flanked by wooden-fronted shophouses topped with moss-covered tiles has much to recommend; not least being the fact that a concerted effort has been made to retain the city’s old-world charm. By way of example, it’s the only place in Vietnam that places a restriction on motorbike use, and the only place that compels local businesses, by law, to hang lanterns from their facades. This really hits home when you see hoards of travellers on cycles and as evening encroaches, you see the lantern shining out from narrow alleys and the riverbank in the hundreds — their light reflecting in the laboured waters of the Thu Bon River. At Hoi An’s ancient core is a rich coming together of Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese and European influences, dating back to the 16th century, lending to a culinary scene that ranks among the best in Asia.
To zoom out a bit, Vietnam brims with unmatched culinary offerings, from its dizzying variety of street food, to fine dining. To parallel Ho Chi Minh City’s frenetic energy, I found uniquely flavoured dishes, often with a sweet twist. The north has wonderful Chinese-inflected cuisine and Central Vietnam loves it’s spice. This brings us back to Hoi An’s underrated gastronomic delights.
Let’s talk about a trio of restaurants I’m particularly biased towards — Mango Rooms, Mango Mango and Mai Fish — all run by bonafide Hoi An legend, Chef Duc. His creative flair comes from his upbringing: Vietnamese-born, Texas-raised, he has also travelled extensively and cooked around the world.
If I had three nights in Hoi An, I would perhaps spend one night at each of these establishments. Decked out with a more bohemian aesthetic, I found Mango Rooms to be ideal for a quiet evening with a companion or two; with a riverside cocktail in the quaint outside patio. Mango Mango is definitely the chicest of the bunch, overlooking the 18th century Japanese bridge and is where I went with a group of travellers I met on a tour to My Son Temple earlier in the day. To complete the trio, Mai Fish, undoubtedly, has the best outdoor seating, so this is where I would end up when the temperature was perfect.
Over three weeks spent exploring the length of Vietnam, I have eaten at some of the nicer restaurants and sat on plastic chairs barely a few inches off the ground, on the side of bustling roads in search of the perfect meal. Ultimately, there is no doubt in my mind that, if you are a foodie, then you must make a beeline for Hoi An.
Written By Rhea Baweja
Week 25, June ’19
