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Goa – a Portuguese Delight!

Taryn Rodriques

Known for a spritzing set of beaches and defined by its unmatched nightlife in India, Goa has scrolls of history wrapped in its monuments, spices and cuisines from time long gone. The Portuguese influence, to this day, remains in every element of Goa – the houses, the food or the people. There are various ways to experience the Portuguese elements of Goa. Make visits to the below places for a true heart-warming experience:

Fontainhas
In Portuguese Fontainhas means “Fountain of the Phoenix”. The name comes attached to the natural spring that is right at the end of the neighbourhood – at the bottom of Altinho hill. Reclaimed by a wealthy Portuguese called “Mossmikar” – the area was initially used for coconut plantations. Later, Fontainhas became a residential area for Portuguese administrative officers. Today, it is a world heritage site – with colourful houses maintained and restored, winding streets of the old Latin Quarter (a delight to stroll through!), old bakeries and cafes (grab a lunch or evening meal, you will not be disappointed!). 

Pro – Tip: Fontainhas is a day-trip on its own. Join a guided tour for a better experience. 

Basilica of Bom Jesus
Oldest church in Goa and with a 408-year old Baroque architecture (yes, it is still restored and mesmerizing!) – the Basilica of Bom Jesus is a marvel in Goa. Located in Old Goa, this is a very accessible tourist site and there are numerous guided tours on a daily basis for your ease. 

We recommend – Join a guided day trip to Old Goa – learn about the history with a well-informed guide. 

St. Catherine’s Cathedral
This one is interesting! The day of victory in Goa happened to be on the feast of Saint Catherine – this is why the cathedral was dedicated to St. Catherine. The main alter is dedicated Catherine of Alexandra and there are several paintings on either side of it. High above the main altar is the huge gilded reredos (ornamental screen), its six main panels carved with scenes from the life of St Catherine, to whom the cathedral is dedicated. UNESCO has declared this a World Heritage Site – make sure you visit the cathedral once during your stay!

We recommend – Join a guided day trip to Old Goa – learn about the history with a well-informed guide. 

 

Fort Aguada
Fort Aguada was once the most prized and crucial fort of the Portuguese in Goa. It is so large that it envelops the entire peninsula of Bardez. Prominent features of the scape include a moat and a 4-story lighthouse – the largest in Asia – all the way from 1864.

We recommend – Make it a day trip with a visit to Sinquerim Beach and a visit to Central Jail in Aguada too. Drop by the Stone House on the way back for an evening meal!

Goan Delicacies  

Another way to experience true and traditional Portuguese during your stay in Goa is through the people and the food. Take time to set out on a walk into the streets of Goa and see people lazing at their porches with the morning paper or an afternoon drink. Sit by a bar and let life pass you by like a true Goan. Food makes up the most important part of the vibrant culture of Goa – Portuguese food with a hint of coastal Goa! A few must-try mains of Goan Cuisine are:

Goan Fish Curry and Rice
A traditional Goan meal prepared in every Goan home almost every day, this is prepared with Mackerel fish – cheap, easily available and tasty – but above all, nutritious! 

Fish Recheado
This is a spicy, tangy and shallow-fried fish dish – traditional to Goan cuisine and filled with masalas. The Recheado masala is a red paste stuffed into fish like pomfret and mackerel and then shallow fried. The taste is delicious – wash it down with a cool 8 Finger Eddie Local Goan Beer!

Chicken Cafreal
The cafreal masala is a green paste made from coriander, green chillies, whole spices and a sour ingredient which could be tamarind, lime juice or vinegar. Chicken is marinated in this masala and cooked to a tangy and fiery taste! Aromatic and delicious, this is one not to miss when you dine in Goa!

Pork Vindaloo
A fiery Pork dish, “Vindaloo” was originally known as “Vinha D’alhos” coming from the Portuguese heritage. Included as a delicacy in the Goan culture with the addition of classic palm or coconut vinegar and dried red chilli, Vindaloo has a blend of both spicy and tangy flavours.

Caldeirada
Traditionally named owing to the ceramic pot it is cooked in, this dish is true to Goan cuisine with different types of fish and seafood. It is a fish stew cooked to perfection and enjoyed with a neer dosa or Malabari paratha. 

Bebinca
A traditional Goan pudding with seven layers, this dessert is thick, rich, coconutty and milky all at the same time. Grab a slice after dinner for a tasty end to your meal!

Channa Doce
Fudgy, soft and delicious the Channa Doce is a traditional sweet prepared for festivals and weddings. Made using Bengal gram and shaped like a Kaju Katli, this delicacy is available in many bakeries – textures differing from one to another. Grab some as a remnant of your Goan escapade!

Serradura
Serradura, meaning “sawdust” in Portuguese, is a traditional Goan go-t0 dessert. It is a creamy pudding with crumbled biscuits in between – it is like a Portuguese Whoopie-pie. Grab some at a local restaurant after a decadent meal to complete your experience! 

These are just a few of the main dishes in Goan Cuisine. But however, one must remember that the Portuguese “influenced” the style of cooking on the coastal side of India. To understand the adaptation of certain cooking styles in Indian Coastal Cooking, have a look at the below bullets:

  • Spices and ingredients like chillies, potatoes and heavy use of tomatoes – are some of the basic ingredients in Goan cuisine. This was a traditional hand-down from the original Portuguese styles of cooking in pre-independence Goa. 
  • The Portuguese used wine in their food – Goans began to use vinegar in the bargain – for the same sour taste that wine brings. Notice that in vindaloo there is a heavy use of vinegar (hence, the first half of the name being ‘vin’)
  • The Portuguese influence can also be noticed in Goa’s catholic food – for example, xacuti, cafreal, caldeirada, Balchao, Racheido and Vindaloo are all of Portuguese origin – each with a unique twist from post-independence Goa. 
  • Not forgetting the sweet tooth – many of Goan desserts – found in traditional bakeries – are once again, influenced greatly by Portuguese cuisine. Chat with the locals to get your hands on some dedos da dama, pasteis de natas, pasteis de Santa Clara and some petas de freiras. 

Looking for something more in-depth? Take a cooking class! Experience Authentic Goan life and cuisine as you join a class and cook together with family recipes that are hard to find in restaurants or you can even join a class to learn how to make a variety of Goan local bread, pao, poiee, buns etc

Fun Fact – While in Goa, delve into the Saraswat Brahmin Cuisine. They are a typical Brahmin race of Goa that regularly consume Indian breads and Hooman ani Xit (fish curry and boiled rice). Quite unique for a brahmin, isn’t it?

Written By Taryn Rodriques

Week 48, November ’20

 

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