Glenburn Tea Estate, A Corner of Heaven

For the last couple of years I have been working on a passion project of mine — Nooks And Valleys. It happens in the background, as other work pressure makes it hard for me to give this enough time. The idea was to showcase tiny boutique hotels from across the world. Hotels that reflect the heart and soul of their owners. Whilst curating this list of hotels, I discovered the Glenburn Tea Estate & Boutique Hotel. So, for a while it was on my wish-list to visit Glenburn. Mind you I no longer have a bucket list in my life. For me a wish-list and a bucket-list are very different ideas. The wish-list is something I want to do, but if it is does not happen before I die, I will not be left feeling incomplete. This was somewhere my heart was tugging at me to go.

Every year we celebrate the day we had our first date as our anniversary, with more fervor and enthusiasm than we celebrate the day we got married. As we were due to complete thirty years of being together, I decided why not make Glenburn happen. For us Glenburn was a big stretch for the pocket. It took some organizing of resources. Boy am I glad we made it happen. Especially when I think back now sitting in a lock down. The world economy in tatters. And several businesses on the brink of closing. So glad that we took the plunge and made it happen for us.

In the third quarter of last year we were on our way to this amazing tucked away nook of the world. The journey begins from the time you book. Members of their team meticulously give you every possible information to be able to prepare for your stay. The experience starts to feel special from that point itself.

As the flight gets closer to Darjeeling the views of the magnificent Himalayan range leave you awestruck. You do have to be lucky to get the seats on the correct side of the aircraft to get that experience. Of course, we were the lucky ones.

There is an old-world charm about everything they do at Glenburn. Even the pickup at Bagdogra airport is like that. Their driver was well presented, spoke very politely and made us comfortable from the word go. He was most accommodating, when excitedly G wanted to stop and see all the vegetables being sold along the roadside, ensuring that we got the right rate for what we decided to buy. Like little children we were excited to see the toy train tracks running alongside the road. And were disappointed that we did not get to see the steam locomotive, still in operation. This railway track was laid in the late eighteen hundreds and still is functional.

We were eagerly looking forward to the picnic that was planned for us enroute the estate. They plan a picnic in the mountains to give a break during the over three-hour ride. Cheese sandwiches, cucumber and tomato sandwiches, brownies, some fruits, and of course their own perfectly brewed Darjeeling tea served at the right temperature. The ensemble included the green checked tablecloth, and bone china cups with saucers that were rimmed in gold. In that foggy weather sitting under a round pagoda, it was a treat. Perfect snack for the mid-morning rumbles.

Many an online review had warned us about the last few kilometers to the estate and how that can take about thirty minutes. Well it was a horrible and bumpy road. Tough to stay on the seat. At one point there was this big ditch. Luckily there were some people working to fill that ditch and we were able to cross after a ten-fifteen minute hold up.

The car pulled in at the main drop off point and I felt all the stress drain out from my being. It was stunning. Heavenly. The Himalayas in the distance. Surrounded by deep valleys. Flowers all around. The Burra Bungalow most elegantly standing still in time. I could just be there. And that is what we did for the days we were there. Just be. I was able to feel the breath gently and freely flow through me. Not labored. Just effortless.

Our hosts, who gave us a very traditional welcome on arrival, suggested many a local activity for us to partake in. We politely declined each one. The many other write ups you can read about this property, and its own website, can tell you all about those activities. We decided that we just wanted to be.

One of the first things that Bertie explained to us, as he explains to all the guests, was that if we were really good guests, the Kanchenjunga would show itself and grace us with its magnificent grandeur. With an elevation of 8,586 meters, it is the third highest mountain in the world. Locally it is also known as the sleeping Buddha. We must have been good guests, as on the last day the skies cleared up and we got to see the snow-clad sleeping Buddha resting above the clouds. Was not easy for me to connect but when it happened, it was in a flash. And then I could not take my eyes off the giant sleeping Buddha. The mornings, we were told, was the best time. For two mornings I was out at five-thirty am, but to no avail. And then it magically happened without any warning.

Before our arrival our meal preferences and our meal restrictions had been captured. That aspect was taken care of in every meal. No detail was imperfect.

The entire experience was that of being a guest of the estate manager from bygone times. All the team members performed their roles in a harmonious symphony. Everything perfectly timed and perfectly coordinated. Breakfast under the pomelo tree at a mid-landing between the two houses. Lunch in the verandah. Teatime in the garden with a snack laid on a white tea-trolley. Dinners in the main dining hall with the hosts and with all the in-house guests. Not to forget the pre-dinner drinks for all the guests alongwith our hosts, Bertie and Audrey, in the verandah. Evenings were also dress up time for all of us. It all felt like going back in time. The times of sahibs and memsahibs.

One of the evenings Audrey was telling us how life was in the tea estates several years ago. At one of the estates they were stationed at, the house had about twenty-four staff only for the two of them. She recounted how each staff had a specific duty. One of them, she recalled, simply polished all the handles in the house through the week. That’s it. Just that one job for him to do.

Just as it may have been in olden times, these two main houses of the estate were also immaculately maintained. Nothing was amiss.

We had several opportunities to chat with our hosts and were regaled by many a story of their life experiences. They had an energetic aura about them, despite being in their seventies. They moved about the estate effortlessly. Starting their day very early in the morning and only retiring once dinner was done and dusted. Bertie said the very formal toast to start dinner and also closed the dinner with special good night wishes.

Anytime was teatime. There was no restriction on ordering tea. It was hearty and satisfying to be able to explore the many nuances of their wide variety of teas. The sweet floral fragrances of many lingered in the air soothing our tired urban souls.

The team never fussed if we made a request to have our tea or our lunch at a different location around the bunglow or its vast grounds. Most accommodating without a huff.

Data was limited and a big struggle. No television. No newspapers. Making it easier for us to disconnect from the outside world. Allowing our senses to soak in the sights and smells. Giving us an opportunity to connect with ourselves. To do self-exploration. To pause. To discover more about ourselves. To evaluate who I am, what I want to be. I made many mental notes and wrote some. Being enveloped by nature made it easier to think. The man-nature connection was invigorating for both of us. Especially for G. She needs her dose of nature as often as possible. Daily she chose a different location to meditate wearing her resplendent, magnifique blue flowing dress. Life for those few days was just as simple as that.

G and I got a lot of time to talk and rest. One late afternoon she put on the dress she had worn on our first date. It was getting a bit dark and so took me a few seconds to connect. Thirty years on. It was something to see her in that dress, and it still fit. Vow. We just sat by ourselves talking till it was time to go for dinner. Going over the years gone by.

Our anniversary dinner was set up for us separately, on one of the terraces of the Water Lily Bungalow. Very romantic setting. Our hosts had very generously gifted us a bottle of bubbles. A memorable evening to mark the completion of being together for thirty years. So much in love then, so much in love now. G still as stunningly gorgeous.

It was easy to connect with all the guests who overlapped with us. The space being so vast there were no intrusions for any of us. When we did meet for drinks in the evening, or chatted over tea in the gardens the mood and environment was conducive for an easy camaraderie. Our hosts specially felt like long lost friends. We are still in touch, even though mobile signals on the estate are a challenge.

For a couple of days there were three American young men on their India discovery journey. The fun part was, engaging with them as they flew their drone across the vast valleys in our direct view.

One morning Bertie took us across to the tea factory. We had the opportunity to taste a variety of teas, and experience the tea making process. Another afternoon his next in command, Chetti, accompanied us on a walking tour of the tea gardens. Explaining all about the teas. He lives in the village that is walkable, but down a steep slope. Bravely he rides up and down on his bike. Aging parents and a little child are his responsibility, and he is the fourth generation to be working on this tea estate. So much connection. So much history.

I had the special thrill of eating tea leaf tempuras along with one of our afternoon teas. On other afternoons the onion bhajias were also perfectly cooked and so were the cookies perfectly made in their kitchens. All the food was a gastronomic delight. Green tea panna cotta, apple pie, tea cakes, honey on freshly baked bread generously layered with butter — everything was perfectly done. Audrey with her gentile iron hand made sure that all worked in perfect rhythm. Tea smoked chicken with Glenburn Autumn Flush jus, Oolong infused rice — doesn’t it all sound dreamy. Well it was a most beautiful dreamy experience for us. Even the post dinner chocolates they served, were made in their kitchens.

The English floral crockery made every tea & every meal experience special. Very innovatively all floral table arrangements were set in discarded tea pots. These little flourishes left an indelible mark on us. It was all very exciting and at the same time we felt totally cleansed, refreshed and re-energized. Completely surreal

Our bags laden with teas. Our souls cleansed. Yet with a reluctant heart we headed back to our urban grind. Wishing we could live in this corner of heaven forever.

Written By Mohit Gupta

Week 43, October ‘20