Just like any good secret place, this one takes effort to reach. First, you must find your way to Bhutan. That will entail either an international flight from a neighboring city or a long road-trip across the Indian border. Once you finally reach the lower valley of Punakha, you must then meander your way up a 2 kilometer coiling dirt road that demands a slow pace and careful negotiation between driver and vehicle.
Dhumra Farm Resort overlooks the Punakha Valley, and the confluence of the Mo and Po Chhu rivers that meet at its spiritual core: the Punakha Dzong. As an ancient fortress, the winter home of the Central Monastic Body, and site of the King & Queen’s royal wedding, the significance of this architectural wonder is hard to overestimate–even in a country filled with historic and spiritually sacred sites. To arrive at Dhumra and peer down at the dzong far below is a feeling of godliness that neither you nor I probably deserve.
Despite its foreboding location on a high hill over the valley, Dhumra Farm Resort is a cozy place with a home-like feeling. It won’t be surprising then, when you learn that the ancestral farm house once belonged to the aunt of the owner, and the husband-and-wife team have done all they can to preserve it and the nine acres of fruit orchards that it sits upon.
Even in the height of winter, the first thing I noticed upon arrival (and after gawking at the dzong) is the flowers. Dhumra’s grounds have a sort of ‘secret garden’ aesthetic, with a multitude of semi-tropical plants blossoming throughout each season. Then there are the orchards. Pears, persimmons, figs, and guavas hang abundantly from the trees and the air is scented with sweet citrus. It’s quiet up here, except for the buzzing of a nearby bee.
Dhumra Farm Resort is classified as a 3-star property by Bhutan’s tourism council, but the owners have gone above and beyond to create a stand-out experience. They describe it as “high-end agro-tourism.” It speaks to the farm-to-table trend, and takes it a bit farther to create a boutique resort centered on hyperlocal features anchored in the provenance of Bhutan. Yes, the vegetables are grown onsite, and all of the food is made from scratch. But more notable than this is how much of the interior furnishings are Bhutan-made. You’ll find custom buckwheat hull pillows encased in locally-woven yathra (wool) fabric with a traditional Bhutanese motif. The bed spread is a custom-made cotton throw which Rinzin Wangmo, the owner, designed herself. The cotton was organically grown in Bhutan. Even the granite used to construct a viewing area overlooking the Dzong was custom-made from local granite.
One of my favorite things about staying in small, independent hotels is the presence of a charismatic owner. I spent much of one evening in conversation with Rinzin, learning the history of her family and the farm, along with the stories that inspired the creation of Dhumra. While drinking herbal tea in the onsite library, Rinzin showed me a copy of her husband’s book, “Seeing with the Third Eye.” According to the book, there is a deity who resides on the property, who is believed to have helped with the construction of Punakha Dzong in the 16th century. While chatting with Rinzin, I learned a lot about not just the farm, but the country itself. She is a fierce advocate for Bhutan’s sovereignty, and that is why she insists on supporting so many other small businesses through her local suppliers. She also explains to me that they encourage young Bhutanese to gain experience in hospitality, so they employ students from the nearby hospitality institute. It is clear from our interactions with the staff that Rinzin and her husband have taken their time to carefully mentor the staff.
So what do you do while at Dhumra, other than gaze at the valley or eat from its verdant orchards? There are hiking and mountain biking trails you can access from the farm, or you can arrange for a small group writers’ retreat, or just enjoy some nice, simple bonding time with your family. Of course, there is so much to do in Punakha and throughout Bhutan. Dhumra Farm Resort works with local tour operator MyBhutan, who can help you to organize a custom get-away that is tailored precisely to your liking. I would definitely recommend some gentle rafting on the Mo Chhu river, exploring the Punakha dzong, and crossing the nearby suspension bridge to wander neighboring villages. Finally, you may want to get to know the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kinley.
Who is that? Well, don’t worry. His legacy can be seen throughout Bhutan, and you will most certainly hear about him from the many stories the locals love to tell.
Dhumra Farm Resort is a small boutique property with just six rooms, which helps to preserve the peaceful ambiance and exclusive feel. For the weary traveler who wants to feel at home in a far-off place, you’ll find what you’re looking for here.
Written by Bethany Betzler
Bethany Betzler designs travel experiences, writes short stories; essays, and brings strategic direction to cultural projects. Her work is typically place-driven, where she focuses on projects that celebrate a specific city or country and the local community residing there. Her career has led her into contemporary dance, fine art, media, design, economic development, and most recently tourism. She loves forests, drinking coffee, studying Buddhist traditions, running/hiking across the world.
Week 51, December ‘20
